I waited for dawn to break, to see just how big the roaring North Shore surf is on Oahu. Kinda hard for me to tell the height, without surfers out there yet. The waves are breaking in thick slabs, and whitewash is surging up through the beach naupaka in Waialua/Mokuleia.
You can't really see it below, but there are logs and branches being tossed about in the shorebreak near where a stream meets the ocean. I remember a time when my youngest daughter, a little surf rat, disappeared from the house early one morning. We found her in wild shorebreak, having the time of her life, sitting astride a HECO pole that had been washed into the ocean. She was riding it like a bucking bronco, splinters be damned. She's older and wiser now, but still has that crazy surf gene.